Sunday, October 15, 2006

Congratulations Suzanne and Kevin!





Chilled Update

frost hit charlottesville early saturday morning. at 7:30am i found a thin layer of ice on some things.

i was volunteering at a yard-sale-fund-raiser for a third grade farm trip that my daughter will embark on in spring.

i brought coffee cake and herbal tea and another brewed strong coffee and we sold books and baby clothes and puzzles and bikes and things. there was a raffle to win an artisan crafted concrete sink. there was set up and first rush and tear down.

it was a great success.

i bought a cool old camping trip coffee percolator and the moosewood low fat classics cookbook, clothing items and trinkets for tashi, and a still-in-its-shrinkwrap bjork cd: vespertine. tashi has been obsessed with her magic eight ball. yard sales can be like stumbling upon hidden treasure.

somewhere in there tashi and i drove off to scottsville to see dan and the band he's in play vintage surf music at the james river festival. my heart exploded.

at night a couple of dan's co-workers came over to watch "the life of brian". i watched it too except that i fell asleep sometime after brian wrote "romani ite domum" all over the governor's palace and awoke just before his crucifixion.

today we went up to humpback rock's where we saw another band that dan's bandmate is in, a terrific celtic ensemble called king golden banshee. the leaves in all their golden umber alchemy against an ever so perfect blue. a glorious sun that softens the bite of the bitter air. tashi, dan and a mandala coloring book. the sweet sounds of flute, banjo, bodhran, and acoustic guitar.

on that note, i will end my busy but beautiful weekend.

Tuesday, October 10, 2006

tent love

today’s lunch is a warming combination of chicken dumpling soup and fresh italian herb bread baked in the religious studies bread machine.

it was a fab weekend at carter’s caves state park.

dan and laura rolled in late friday night after dan and i drank most of the beer. we were able to hand them our last two wolaver’s organic brown ale. we sat around the fire under the harvest moon and exchanged stories and smiles. saturday included strong coffee, turkey bacon, two cave tours, chicken sausages, an awesome hike around dramatic rock formations, guyere cheese, romps around a meadow, fair trade red wine, surreal underground waterways, kindling collecting, baked potatoes w/ flourishes, a flat tire, jarlsburg cheese, plant identification and mattar paneer. we were all pretty tired by saturday night.

sunday was all about breakfast, packing up camp and a morning hike that fooled us. we were the last to leave the campground after disco bellydance lunch bagel dandelion delight. we followed dan and laura and their temporary tire to the closest slave-mart where one can get a new tire on sunday in god’s country. you can also find some fine $1 hats and $4 sunglasses.

and then we said goodbye.

hmph.

monday was all about exhaustion, seasonal affective disorder, missing kindred spirits, and fiscal frustration.

tonight is my new vinyasa yoga class that kicks my brittle butt.

that is the lunchblog update for this typical october tuesday.

Thursday, October 05, 2006

moon trip



tomorrow night is the harvest moon and we're going to be in kentucky.

that's right.

tomorrow morning we're packing up the car with all our camping gear and canned food and heading west over the appalachians.

we'll be meeting our pals laura and dan from ann arbor at a campground in carter's caves state park. we'll pitch tents and worship the moon. and on saturday we'll check out the caves. one has a 30 ft waterfall!

i didn't go camping at all over the summer so i'm beside myself with excitement. i love hanging out under the big starry sky until the wee hours. i love to emerge from a tent on a crisp morning and rekindle embers from the night before. i love to share the wonder with my daughter, my hubs, and a couple of dearly missed friends.

but i don't love camping in the rain. so everyone, think good thoughts now. please.

we'll be back on time for columbus (was a crook) day.

enjoy the full moon blog stars.

Monday, October 02, 2006

cat tails and dorsal fins

it is a fine charlottesville evening. tashi is in bed finishing her 800 page book. dan is at band practice. luna is purring next to tashi and digging her claws into the duvet. and loki is staring at the front door with longing.

loki has a shaved tail for the second time this year. once again he was bitten. this time we have a much better vet. no hysterics about the possibility of rabies. no head cone. no stitches even. the bill was 1/5 what it was in january. loki is well and looks like a punk rock kittie with his shaved tail. we have to give him an antibiotic pill every night and limit his outdoor time. he is none too pleased.

aside from cat-astrophe, we had a fine weekend. on friday we drove to williamsburg where a couple of good pals moved recently. they teach hinduism and buddhism at william and mary. they bought a nice house and adopted a sweet dog. their boy jakob and our girl tashi play very nicely together. we all ate two kinds of chocolate cake before bed and hung out at the farmer's market in the morning. the william and mary appalachian string band was very enjoyable.

after our too short visit we launched ourselves to virginia beach where we had scheduled a ride on the dolphin boat. tashi is obsessed with dolphins so we thought this would be a nice treat. we first checked out the neptune festival but it was way too crowded to be considered fun. we saw a world record breaking (for height) sand sculpture of neptune's underwater palace.

the dolphin boat was chock-full-o-hillbillies smoking cigarettes while holding babies in their arms. we saw lots and lots of dolphins. they didn't show off for us, but they would all come up for air in unison. when the boat turned around and picked up speed for the return we saw a couple of dolphins leap in the wake. and then when we got close to the boarwalk area we had a bunch of para-surfers visit our wake. they were desperate for any kind of wave.

after all that fun we ate fish at a seafood place that is probably not worth returning to. and on the way home we stopped by our nearest trader joe's, two and a half hours away from charlottesville in newport news. i stocked up on black beans, olive oil, whole wheat pasta, whole grain cereal, balsamic vinegar, tom's of maine toothpaste and other miscellany. we sure wish trader joe's would come to charlottesville.

on sunday we cleaned out our dank root cellar and discovered mildew on many favorite things. we should have known better. now i feel like i have black lung.

time to sing a goodnight song to tashi.

Saturday, September 23, 2006

oktoberfuss

wow, who woulda thunk it would be so hard to find a setlist from the funk. i guess i should have just put it to memory, the songs they played. but my mind doesn't work that way.

tonight at the last minute dan said -- oh, so and so and so and so are meeting at ludwig's for an oktoberfest dinner. and i said, well damn, let's go. so we did.

for a year we've had a curious eye on ludwig's bavarian schnitzelhouse. we live just a few blocks away and drive by it daily. it seemed as cold as its stone exterior however, and expensive. we weren't hip to the rowdy lounge where you can drink liters of frothy german beer. where you can eat goulash or four varieties of bratwurst or half a roasted chicken for under $8. where you are served by a surly waitress in a white apron.

during oktoberfest you can win funny green hats with plummage and sunglasses shaped like beer steins (dan did). even tashi prized away some plastics: a kinderegg, two strands of shiny beads and a couple of balloons. and you can hoot and holler and throw paper airplanes (dan did). and believe it or not, you can have smart conversation amongst it all.

that's what happened tonight at ludwig's.

happy autumnal equinox to all you people pulling out the wool blankets (or not). and happy anniversaries too. you know who.

Friday, September 22, 2006

bright lights big band

I will post more later.

But for a quick overview of Parliament Funkadelic, best song was probably Maggot Brain, but perhaps for my own sentimental reasons. Also, the drummer, guitarist and bassist did an awesome jam on their own. The riff, I'm told by my husband, was Jethro Tull's "New Day Yesterday." And the show ended with “At the Hop”!!?!!?

Sir Nose did some good twisting and grooving and it was pretty fun to see a bunch of audience members on stage joining the circus. George Clinton was glorious and his entrance was all that it should have been, in his wild robe, carrying a long staff with fuzzy haired skull face on the top.

Really, I’m not sure if I can say one song was better than another because the whole show completely rocked. Continuous music for three and a half hours without so much as a break between songs. Those guys (and one woman) are awesome and have so much spirit. It was definitely a music event to remember.

The guy with the giant orange cowboy hat probably should get the prize for best dressed audience member. Though the girl with the watermelon colored hair , watermelon colored gloves, and green & black striped tights gets a close second.

"Bullshit" was the recurring phrase of the evening. Its fun to yell that sentiment really loud with lots of other people in this day and age.

As soon as I find a set list I’ll post it, as well as more impressions of the event.

Thursday, September 21, 2006

funka lunch

Mmm, guacamole and chips. So good.

Today is a very exciting day because it is going to be followed by tonight. And tonight Dan and I are going to see Parliament/Funkadelic at the Charlottesville Pavilion. That’s right, we’re gonna get funked up. Tickets were a birthday present from Dan. The last time we saw P-Funk was in San Francisco at Fort Mason. Boy does that ever feel like a long time ago.

We even hired a babysitter. She’s going to bring over cookie dough and bake with Tashi.

And so you can guess what I’m listening to on Pandora. So far they have played: The Motor Booty Affair; Handcuffs; Super Stupid; I Got a Thing, You Got a Thing, Everybody’s Got a Thing; Flashlight; This Broken Heart; P-Funk; Rumpofsteelskin; Cholly and Smokey. With a few obscure songs by misc funk bands thrown in between.

Music reviews are not my thing, but I’ll be sure to check back in and let you know how it all went.

Tuesday, September 19, 2006

quick hit

Today’s culinary lunch delight is Cypriot style stuffed squash w/ bulgur.

Today’s literary trivia: Edgar Allan Poe attended one semester of college at UVA. Just blocks away from my office his dorm room is enshrined behind a glass door through which the curious can peer at spare furnishings and a raven sculpture.

Watch for falling nuts. The Squirrels are tossing them by the multitude from the tops of tall trees.

That is the lunchblog update for today.

Friday, September 15, 2006

crusty keyboard

it's another lunchblog update. today's lunch is leftover homemade pesto pizza topped with with artichoke hearts, mushrooms and lots of cheese. yum. beth orton is singing "sweetest decline" on pandora, a song that makes me want to weep.

but i'm not weeping, i'm eating.

yesterday i accidentally left my closet door open and wouldn't ya believe, the cat, which ever one it is, did its business on a big backpack that is stored away in there. thank goodness for a fine product called bi-o-kleen which seems to take care of catsmell.

that is the cat urine update of the day.

anyone know what to do about a cat that has taken to random pissing?

i'm sorry. this really isn't a very nice topic is it? goes to show that life these days is a little on the dull side.

but it's the weekend! that means fridaynightdowntownpeoplewatchwithabeer and saturdaymorningfarmersmarket and maybe a blueridgesundaydrive. yay.

ok, i gotta get outside for a bit of my lunchbreak and continue reading karma cola by Gita Mehta. cheers.

Wednesday, September 13, 2006

lentil soup log in

Yes indeed, and it’s Progresso Lentil soup, one of the few soups of that brand that doesn’t have MSG or some unidentifiable eight syllable preservative in it.

Life on the ranch is hectic, messy and rather overcast. I haven’t much to report, but thought I should make an appearance.

You could surf on the mushrooms in our yard, except that they are beginning to rot and fall off their stalks. The grass needs a trimming and the deck needs lots of love. Raccoons knock our garbage can over every night, so rubbish appears in unexpected places. Loki is surely upset today, locked in the house because of rain. We suspect Luna of being the one that pees on any canvas bag left on the floor. She’s destroyed Dan’s computer bag, taken a shot at our collapsible cooler, messed up some decent farmer’s market sacks, left a taint on Tashi’s backpack and even left her mark on a few pairs of socks. If you come to our house, remember to set your bag up high. And if you remove your socks while watching tv, don’t toss them on the floor. We are working on this problem and will be sure to keep you updated.

I just leant my umbrella to a faculty member. It is fluorescent pink and blue and yellow and has the word “love” printed all over it.

That seems as good a place as any to sign off.

Wednesday, September 06, 2006

a tribute to fun

our one year charlottesville anniversary came and went. so did my 39th birthday. my mother had a safe return to ann arbor on saturday. tashi started school tuesday. dan went to germany for a week and has returned. tropical depression ernesto knocked a tree down around the corner which in turn knocked the power out. there are mushrooms growing in our yard.

on saturday tashi and i visited old town alexandria after dropping my mom off at reagan national airport. the potomac river had flooded a bit the night before and there was a line of sludge and plastic water bottles all along the waterfront. we visited the torpedo factory, a place that was once indeed a manufacturer of such, but now houses dozens of artisan studios.

on sunday a jet-lagged dan, tashi and myself went to an open house at a winery where we had a picnic, a wine tasting and a wade in the rockfish river. tashi didn't want to stomp on grapes with her bare feet because there were bees buzzing nearby. later she didn't want to wade in the river because an adult smashed a wine glass on some rocks.

after our winery experience we took a drive up and over the blue ridge and dropped down into lexington where there were military boys in white uniforms lining up at every restaurant. we resigned ourselves to ordering subs on the outskirts of town and then went to hull's drive-in where we watched the second pirates of the carribean movie. it was a full house. the last time i went to a drive-in theater i was in high school and surely crocked. hull's is the only non-profit drive-in in the country and very family oriented. a group that calls themselves "hull's angels" saved it from its near destruction a few years ago. the movie was pretty gruesome, not the type of film we would normally choose for tashi's viewing pleasure. but she accidentally saw the first pirates movie on tv and loved it so much we assumed the second one would be as entertaining. we came away fairly ambivalent about the whole experience.

labor day was about groceries, hair cuts and new school shoes.

alas, tashi is now reading to dan before bed, and so i must go join them.

Monday, August 28, 2006

rain write



I'm stuck at work waiting for a rainstorm to pass before I head home. So I thought this would be a good after hours blog opportunity. Right now I'm listening to Cheb I Sabbah on Pandora while the bruised sky breaks opens.

Yesterday we went to Luray Caverns. It was an awesome underground network of stalagmite cathedrals, deep crevices and mirror ponds. It is just unbelievable that this surreal world exists under an unassuming grassy hill. Tashi was a little spooked as it felt like a vicious goblin might appear from behind any of the many wild formations. But all in all we had a grand time.

The drive through the Shenandoah Valley to Luray was about as scenic as can be, with the Appalachian range to the West and the Blue Ridge to the East and the lazy river winding back and forth throughout. And then we had another blissful ride home through the Rappahannock Valley (pictured above). It was perfect dream of rolling pastures, animated mountains, pretty homesteads, horses and cows. The kind of land that makes you want to get off the grid and sell herbal teas for a living. Wait, wasn't once I going to do that? I may yet. . .

On saturday we checked out Lexington, Virginia. Unfortunately I didn't run into Sally Mann. We did roam through a kitschy community fair and eat funnel cake. Afterwards we got lost on some back roads leading to the James River and then we drove up to the Blue Ridge Parkway where we enjoyed more stunning scenery and a wonderful sunset.

It was just the kind of Virginia weekend we needed. Even if the car wanted to overheat and was spewing a foul black smoke every so often.

Sunday, August 13, 2006

week end cap

hello babes in blogland. it is sunday night and the laundry is in full swing. dan just cleaned the catbox and is now studying chinese. tashi is finishing up a chapter in the fourth harry potter book before showering. my mother is doing the dishes because she insists it is so. luna and loki are having their last outdoor romp of the day. for dinner we ate a free range grain fed chicken cooked in our little baby rotisserie. along with it we had tasty tabbouleh, baked potatoes and corn. today i went grocery shopping, wrote poetry, played at mad libs with tashi, puttered around the house and cooked. that is the sunday update.

yesterday we went to washington, dc, which is mere two hour drive north east. we went because my mother wanted to go to the anti-war march (pictured above). there certainly could be worse things to do with one's mother. dan and tashi went to the national zoo while mom and i joined in the crowd of 30,000 and chanted, "iraq, lebanon, palestine! occupation is a crime!" it was a very upbeat demonstration and i'm glad we attended. the sign i carried said, "president bush, quit the killing of innocent children!"

we met dan and tashi at kramer books and afterwords cafe near dupont circle. it was happy hour and i drank two very dark turbo dogs. we then drove off to georgetown where there were lots and lots of yuppies and expensive restaurants. we ate at a lebanese restuarant called fetoosh. i didn't order the right thing, but dan's kebabs and tashi's kibbees and my mom's gyro were quite tasty.

we arrived home just in time for a saturday night live re-run. i promptly fell asleep on the couch and got a kink in my neck.

Tuesday, August 08, 2006

desktop doodle

it's a lunchbreak blog update.

ants: thanks to grants ant stakes, there are fewer tiny annoying creepy crawlies in our house.

dust: my mother is making sure to keep it all at bay

hawks: there are still red tail hawks roosting in the tall pine tree two doors down. but the small hawks i've seen in my yard are not red tail fledglings at all. they are coopers hawks who kill songbirds. the other day tashi and i witnessed one pulling apart a bird and feasting. afterwards it made a series of yakking sounds and puffed itself up all proud. and then i had to observe it torment a cardinal and steal her babies from the nest. it was one of the worst nature watching experiences i've ever had.

cicadas: yesterday i found one on its back on the sidewalk, trying desperately to turn himself upright. i helped him out. and then this morning i found one of those cool dried shells stuck to our deck. cicadas are a trip.

mice: oh forget it, way too gross.

tashi: she's in an art daycamp at the mcguffey center. yesterday she drew human figures with charcoal, scuplted with clay, and sketched a camp-mate without either lifting her pen or looking at the paper. did i mention that she read like seven books when we were in cyprus? including the first two harry potter books. who was it that said waldorf kids end up illiterate?

food: we ate at a great new nepali/indian/tibetan fusion restaurant on the downtown mall. the service was slow and the food slightly overpriced (except for the lunch buffet which is very reasonably priced), but i must say the momo's and pakoras were some of the best i've ever had. and the company, it was quite excellent. buddhists are so nice & interesting, ya know.

Thursday, August 03, 2006

greetings from the abyss

sorry about the blog absence. i've been catching up with work, sleep, house, husband. the return has been stressful. ants have taken over our dusty abode. one of my cats has decided to mark its territory on any canvas bag in site. and it's hot. hotter than cyprus. we've caved into the politically incorrect way of cooling systems, and installed two window units. wow. they sure make a difference. and a lot of noise. and my mom is staying with us. she doesn't like the ants or cat pee or dust or heat or noise. in fact, i don't think she likes me very much either.

clickety click if you want to see documentation of our one night in london with my cousin david (who was a tireless video taper). some of the "arrival" video is fun central london stuff. we're pretty tired looking in the "epilogue." and "talk talk" is just that, and lots of it. pretty good recaps of our trip to cyprus, which at this point doesn't even seem like it actually happened.

stay tuned for virginia adventures, we hope.

Tuesday, August 01, 2006

the sounds of war

i just found this and this blog coverage/commentary of the lebanon israeli war. i will add more as i discover them.

Friday, July 28, 2006

home is nice

it sure is green in virginia. and those mountains, with the mist, just lovely.

Monday, July 24, 2006

final thought

today our last day in cyprus. the journey has been a bumpy load punctuated by periods of sea drift. fleeting moments of relaxation: floating like a starfish under cyprus sky. sky specific to this region -- a certain blue, a certain smell, a certain just-so along the land, a certain presence upon closed eyelids that conveys bliss and bombardment. a certain agony. a certain jubilation.

the beauty of cyprus is subtle. it emerges from a rusty tire rim. it grows from the stone rubble of an abandoned village home riddled with bullet holes. it peaks out from between ostentatious resorts and villas. it drifts between traffic jams and round-abouts. it sinks behind the akamas peninsula and rises from the shore of the pomos point. it brings you a sense of harmony despite its very destruction, despite the devastation of a land less than 100 miles away.

Saturday, July 22, 2006

our days are numbered

where capers grow along dusty track. cats cling. winding venture seeks cedar valley. aromatic shift. the fan isists. goat smell. after fish, a feast. the pillar cracked ignites a need. fig tree from tomb. thyme scent & snake. surf breaks upon rock. salt spray. doves salute setting sun.

- - - - - - -

yesterday, after visiting aphrodite's temple in kouklia, we drove up into the mountains. we wound through several villages of stone houses and red roofs. the greenery multiplied and the breeze grew fresh and strong. we lunched in omodos, a village of white washed walls, blue wooden shutters, thin cobbled alleyways. old women sit in doorways concentrating on needlework and urging tourists into their shops. there are several old wine presses and traditional houses. we continued on to troodos, near the highest part of the range, and rode horses on a dirt track where we had sweeping views in all directions. tashi's horse was rita, and mine, ramon. they were very good horsies. after some fun in the playground we began our descent, stopping at troodhitissa, a peaceful monastery that looks more like a swiss chalet. we ended up in mongaria, where there was a festival celebrating the region's famous commanderia wine. we saw several awesome traditional song and dance routines, observed a boot cobbler, a basket maker, a chair caner. we drove back to our flat in the late-late night, my eyes fighting to remain open.

the day before we took my mom to ayios neophytos monastery built near a cave where the saint once carved out a home for himself and lived a monk's life. the funky village of lemba followed, a small community of artists and students. the cyprus school of art is there, surrounded by a colorful wall of sculpture and found objects. tashi decided that it was where she would go to college. i indulged in a beatiful teapot of lemba pottery. hopefully i'll get it home in one piece. lemba also has a very cool archeological sight of prehistoric round stone houses, but tashi was too hot to deal with it. afterwards we drove to lara bay, along the west side of the akamas peninsula. we took a swim at the blissful sandy beach, which is also one of few turtle hatcheries. a small girl named nikoletta befriended tashi. her parents were both mute.

this morning i visited the archeological museum here in polis, a small but fine collection of well preserved antiquities. polis was once called marion and then arsinoe.

today, tomorrow, and the next, our last in cyprus this summer.

Tuesday, July 18, 2006

disco post



when i first came into this cafe/bar with two computers tucked into a hot upstairs loft, i was so happy because they were playing bob marley. sometimes bob marley is all you need after weeks of greek pop music. but now they are playing very, very loud euro-trash disco music and it hurts.

but i am here and thus must update.

tonight as i drove in solitude the ten miles to polis from our little flat i felt such a mix of emotions. the sun was setting beautifully in tones of lavender and violet over the sea with the mesas and mountains of the akamas peninsula looking like a sleeping beast. i felt sad that i have just one week left in my birth place, which, sooner or later given enough time, always casts me under aphrodite's spell. i felt so much love that i thought i'd melt right there in the car and merge with the sea. but i also felt remorse, after the tension and stress of my mother and my aunt. and i felt lonely, not having my beautiful man by my side in this incredibly romantic place. and i felt huge waves of awe for my daughter who has been so entertained by the adults and who is filling her sketch book with intricate drawings and who is completely intoxicated by the underwater world. snorkeling in the mediterranean sea is way up there on the list of the best things to do with one's child.

that and climbing down into the ancient underground tombs that we visited yesterday. the tombs of the kings is an incredible sight of deep underground burial structures built as far back as the 4th century BC. tashi was certain is was going to be really boring but then couldn't get enough of the steep stairwells leading down to the well preserved underground temples full of burial chambers. we saw several lizards and a long black whip snake. all along the site are fig trees, caper plants, palm trees and wild thyme.

earlier in the day we swam at petra tou romiou, an outstanding rocky outcropping along the south coast where aphrodite is said to have risen from the sea. the water was icy cold, but so refreshing. tashi met another eight year old american child at the rocks and had a really good time connecting with a little person.

and so all goes well and seems to get better. but right now, i've got to escape this music!

Saturday, July 15, 2006

how many cypriots does it take to unlock a car?

apparently at least eight.

but this isn't an ordinary unlocking. it is the kind that takes place when a stupido tourist like myself locks her keys in the rental car.

this is how i started off my day.

first i went to the bakery, where i picked up olive bread, halloumi bread, a fat ham and cheese pastry, and another crispy pastry stuffed with a sweet cheese and sprinkled with powdered sugar. then i went to the grocery store where i picked up milk, bacon, frozen halloumi stuffed ravioli, juice and a cheap beach towel with dolphins on it. i returned to a locked car, keys in the ignition. so i walked back to our flat, which wasn't all that far. and then i walked with my mom back to the car because she speaks greek. she talked to the grocer who talked to his friend who drove off to get the mechanic. the mechanic arrived and wedged the window slightly open with strange expandable device, and stuck in various wires, first trying to press the unlock button, and then trying to pull the keys from the ignition, and then simply pulling the lock up with success. several villagers and ourselves looked on with suspense while he performed his operation. twenty pounds and two hours later we were able to get into our car and drive.

shit.

i was in a pretty fowl mood after that. it was a sort of climax to all the bad communication that has been going on between my mom, my aunt, and yes, myself. i'm tired of being told where to park, and how to back up, and what to eat and how to eat it. i'm tired of the fact that one person wants to take this path to the beach while the other wants to take the other. life is tough isn't it? ok, that's the end of my vent for now.

last night two of my cypriot-born-now-american cousins and their wives arrived from the states. the last time i saw them i was basically tashi's age. that would be 31 years ago. so we had a big family dinner at a great fish restaurant on the latchi harbor. it was a good old fashioned fish mezze. one plate after another of mussels, calamari, octopus, snapper, swordfish, awesome village salads, bread sprinkled with olive oil and herbs, taziki, taramosalata, and tahini.

today we all went to another beach on akamas, a protected cape of northwestern cyprus where there is a famous spring where, it is said, aphrodite used to bathe. again, the water was a crystal clear display of blue of hues. tashi swam around with her new mask and snorkel, pointing out a number of colorful fish, shells containing crabs and spiny sea urchins. cozy coves flank the bluffs. rocky outcroppings rise up from the sea.

yesterday we visited paphos for the second time. paphos has some awesome ancient ruins and mosaics against a backdrop of every cheesy tourist trap you can imagine. the other night a cypriot musical group performed a tribute to abba. the abba cult lives, even in cyprus. there are tons of shops selling cheap souviners made in china and india. one pub after another. pink pelicans. overpriced food. glass bottomed boats. crowds of tourists looking like cooked lobsters for lack of sunscreen.

i couldn't spend as much time as i would have liked to at the mosaics, as tashi was tired and hot. but a glimpse of the amazingly well preserved depictions of gods and goddesses was better than no glimpse at all. afterwards i took tashi to the paphos aquarium where we saw lots of fish, shrimp, eels, crabs, turtles, sting rays and a couple of alligators fresh from the mississippi. this was a nice compliment to the snake museum we visited the other day, where we saw about six native cypriot snakes, several lizards, spiders, a scorpion and some more turtles.

the other night there was a "pannayiri", a street fair that usually takes place in celebration of saint's day. it was very similar the "mela" i experienced in india. there were booths selling traditional foods, sweet honey balls called lukomathes, piles of pulses, nuts, candies, jujuko (long strings of walnuts encased in a sweet sugar taffy), air dried meats, sausages. some booths sold household items: beach towels with weird depictions of spider man, cinderella, sea creatures and race cars. kitchen ware. bedding. there were booths of pirated cd's and dvd's. and lots of booths selling very junky toys. there were carnival games where you could win caged birds, goldfish, three foot high victorian dolls. and more booths selling junky jewelery and hairbands. it was fascinating the way a carnival is.

so while emotionally i'm feeling a little fragile from the weirdness that is emitting from my mother and her sister, i'm having a great time with my daughter.

unfotunately another war has erupted in the country next door and i'm feeling pretty sick over that. having been completely ignorant of news for a few weeks now (aside from who was winning in the world cup games), the only physical impact that is felt here is that the airports are busier because flights to beruit have been diverted to cyprus.

so i'll end this with a wish for peace.

Thursday, July 13, 2006

we like moufflon

greetings from the "polis connect" internet cafe.

i awoke this morning at 5am and went out for a walk on the shore, shell searching as the sun was about to rise from behind a troodos peak. peaceful, cool, silent, but for the crow of a rooster and the slam of the raging surf. i saw a sideways walking crab, a shy lizard and a leaping fish. the sun eventually covered the land in laava and i found my way back to our cool chamber.

yesterday was a tiring drive into the troodos mountains. we went to the stavros psi tsokas preserve where moufflon are protected. moufflon are a kind of wild sheep with beautiful thick curved horns, once endangered in cyprus. we saw five moufflon in their enclosure. after a nice picnic of ham and halloumi sandwiches with fresh tomatoes and cucumbers, we drove to the obligatory kikkos monastery where my mom got giddy over icons. after that we drove into the cedar valley where a huge collection of the very ancient tree grows.

soon we are going to return to the beach on the akamas penninsula where the water is crystle clear and calm. there are many rocky coves to explore with a mask. the fambly is waiting for me to complete this post so i must run. hopefully i will have more time to disclose details soon.

Monday, July 10, 2006

a note from polis, on the northern coast of cyprus

terribly sorry about the lag in posts. the one computer with a dial up connection at our place of residence is coin operated and usless piece of piddle. it's eaten up my money and frozen on several occasions, sometimes on its own accord typing a single letter over and over and over again until my time runs out.

i've found a lovely internet cafe in town and am drinking illy espresso while i type. sure beats the the nescafe espresso i've been plagued with.

aaaah, coastal bliss. after a week of fun in nicosia, the capitol city, we are now residing in a small flat in ayia marina, on the north west coast. we are near a lovely village called polis, where i sit now. i don't have much time and i don't know when i'll make it to this internet cafe again, so i will attempt to give you a synopsis of the days.

week one/nicosia, cyprus:

we stayed in a fine hotel called "the classic" within the venetian walls of the old city. a lot of time was spent walking up and down ledra street -- a sort of pedestrian mall with the likes of starbucks, mcdonalds, traditional tavernas, shoe stores, and the green line dividing the cypriots and the turks.

while in nicosia i visited a few museums:

1) the cyprus museum, a house full of archeological wonders which i mentioned in a previous post.

2) the handicraft museum, the byzantine icon museum and the modern art museum all within the archbishop's palace. while there a minor hurricane hit and tashi and i sat on a covered balcony watching the rain travel in horizontal slabs as the palm trees bent and swayed. the paved grounds all around the archbishopric filled with about eight inches of water and we had to wade out. the streets were flooded, angry cypriot drivers in a bottle neck were cursing each other, and then we witnessed a collison. a fine day of art and weather.

3) the state gallery of contemporary cypriot art. it was my first time visiting this awesome neo-classical house full of incredible art work. i loved it. i wish i could include some pictures here, but i don't have time. some of my favorite artists were constantinos yiannicouris, adamantios diamantis, andreas-antis ioannides, telemachos kanthos, john corbidge (he made a painting of me when i was about three), angelos makrides, christophoros savva. to name a few. now repeat those all with your eyes closed.

and of course there was family, family, family in cyprus, my godmother, and my childhood friend olga. i had souvlaki five nights in a row.

last thursday my mother, my aunt tina, tashi and i departed from nicosia in our rental car. we drove through a clay pot making village, kornos, and chatted with the old ladies forming the thick red pots. we drove through lefkara, the lace making village, but a storm hit and it was too rainy to get out and enjoy the sights. then we went to apollo's temple perched above the sea, followed by kourion, an ancient amphitheater and archeological site also perched above the sea. we looked at mosaics and ruins and pillars and then went down to a beach where tashi and i splashed around in some big waves. and then onward to ayia marina, our home until our departure at the end of july.

our first day in this area was spent swimming in strong waves, driving as far east along the northern coast as permissible before hitting the cypriot/turk partition, and eating awesome fresh fish and calamari.

the next day was spent hiking into a breezy gorge, swimming in a rocky cove, and driving on twisty dirt roads through abandoned crumbling villages. we saw loads of goats of all shapes, sizes and colors, some with straight horns, some with curly horns, some with beards, many with spots. they were perched on rocky cliff sides, standing on old tin cans eating the leaves off of tree branches, crowding the road in front of the car, lolling about in the shade. crumbling stone structures, or small caves built into the cliffs, cropped up here and there where the sheep herders sleep. tashi and i fed grass to donkeys and watched partridges scoot along the road.

a bit of flora and fauna includes bright violet bouganvilla, white and pink oleander, aromatic jasmine, gardenia and geranium, purple thistles, luscious grape vines, olive, carob, juniper, cedar, eucalyptus. . .

today my mother and aunt tina are going to drop tashi and i off at the hippy beach by the campground. we discovered it last night, a clean, sandy, shallow, calm stretch with umbrellas and lounge chairs along a fragrant stand of eucalyptus. you can view the the akamis penninsula to the west and the pomos pennisula to the east. most of the beaches so far have been rough with deep drop offs which is difficult for tashi, but this one is perfect. and because it is close to a campground, i call it the hippy beach! it is clean with a snack bar and we are going to have a relaxing day while my mom and aunt visit monasteries in the mountains.

ciao, for now!

Monday, July 03, 2006

duality

it is siesta time in cyprus, a good time for me to visit the internet cafe while tashi hangs out in the air conditioned hotel room with yia yia. i like the baking feel of the heat against my sun screen slathered skin. though i do need a big floppy hat. and right now in this cafe, there is big oscillating fan cooling my back.

we had lunch today in small family run taverna with checked tablecloths and caged birds. we had meat & rice stuffed vegetables, pork afelia (wine marinated pork w/ coriander), roasted potatoes, bulgur, thick amazing yogurt, fresh crusty bread, a cooling salad of lettuce, tomotoes, olives and cucumber, lemonade, cyprus coffee and a sip of ouzo.

today is a special day for me. i now officially have dual american and cypriot citizenship. my cypriot ID card was issued this morning, and on friday my cypriot passport should be ready. i feel like dancing on tables and breaking plates.

yesterday we visited the cyprus museum where i got to marvel at statues of aphrodite, artemis, bacchus, zeus, and appreciate stories painted on pots, and ogle ancient jewelery and read about the looting of ancient treasures.

aside from the love of being here, there are some odd family dynamics to navigate, not the least of which is mother's and mine. but we'll survive.

yasoo!

Saturday, July 01, 2006

alive and well on ledra street



here we are in nicosia, cyprus. the journey was epic and the first night was sleepless and hot at my uncle's partner's condo by the sea, a lovely place except for the mouse sized coakroaches. we awoke after just a couple of hours of sleep and jumped in the beautiful, cool, cleansing sea. we are now tucked away in a decent hotel in the old part of the capital city where we will visit many relatives. last night was souvlaki and greek mezze at a restaurant next to "the green line" with my three bearded uncles. the green line is the division between the turkish occupied part of cyprus and cypriot cyprus. the is a big sign there that says, "the last divided capital." pictured above is a lookout point on the green line where you can weep and gaze over at the turkish side.

tashi continues to be a great traveler despite the heat, hassles and sleep deprivation. though right now she is very bored watching me email and blog. i will sign off and pay my fee and we will walk the hot cobbled streets back to our hotel where we will luxuriate in air conditioning until lunchtime. sorry this post is a bit dull, more adventures ahead.