A summary of our two full days in Aphrodite country thus far.
The flat where we are residing is in an area called Oroklini, just a short drive from Larnaca. It is a tourist strip comprised of all that is disturbing about tourist strips, and reminds me of a combination of Virginia beach and some unknown outskirt of Delhi, India. Yet I am somehow able to find charm in the Bingo Hall, Bowling Alley, fake Irish pubs, and weird glitzy beach culture restaurants, and am grateful for the few Cypriot grocery stores that sell delicious fresh yogurt in clay pots, or breads stuffed with olives and Halloumi. The somewhat decrepit nature of the place (despite its newness) is made even more spooky by the fact that is fairly deserted right now in the off season. Thankfully, our flat is a few blocks behind the main drag and is incredibly quiet.
i'm glad we are not staying here!
On Friday we took a walk on our littered local beach which is lined with a mix of luxury and crumbling hotels. Despite the plastic bags and tin cans in the sand, the water is crystal clear. Tashi was beside herself with joy, collecting small shells and rocks that looked like they may have once been a part of some ancient temple. After our brief spell on the beach, we met a clan of stray cats and then waited for the bus that never came. We took a taxi instead to the airport to pick up our rental car, and I kissed goodbye my first 15 Euros.
We immediately drove our brand new compact Kia to the Hala Sultan Tekke Mosque on the salt lake, across from the airport. That was pretty cool. The mosque was built on the spot where Mohammad's aunt, Um Haram, had reputedly fell from a mule and broke her neck. She was buried on the spot. Her sarcophagus is now housed inside the mosque. I am really glad the Cypriots have chosen to preserve this special place. On the way out we saw a praying mantis who was paying his respects. We also saw some flamingos, if only through the car window while passing by the salt lake.
After that we spent some time in Larnaca. Larnaca has the likes of KFC, McDonalds, TGI Fridays and Starbucks (where I sit now) on its beachside promenade, but its Cypriot-European mixy-matchy charm shines through the back streets and old city. We spent some time at the Church of Saint Lazarus, built on the site where he was buried. They even have a piece of his skull under glass to prove it.
Yesterday I arose early and took a power walk along our local beach. I enjoyed the splish of the waves as they came to shore, the stray cats and the colorful stones below my feet. Midday we drove to Nicosia to visit my uncle Lonia and his wife, Hara. Hara is taking great care of Lonia, and he is responding well the Chemo. He was in good humor and was relatively energetic. He took us to a Chinese Restaurant he loves. It was a clean, hip, modern place, and a novelty to eat Chinese food in Cyprus. Cyprus has become very international since it has become a member of the EU.
Here is Lonia, looking quite the gentleman. And a few of his paintings.
Today we plan to have Kleftiko (Lamb slow cooked in the clay oven) in town, and then drive part way up the mountains in search of the Donkey Sanctuary. We’re also going to check out an old archeological site, Choirokitia. After that we hope to drop down to one of the prettier beaches that remain, and perhaps catch the sunset.
And so, that is it for now! More pictures on flickr of course!
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